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Standing proudly at the centre of Eastern Europe's cultural rebirth is Budapest, the city that drew back the iron curtain from Hungary in 1989, exposing one of the continent's hottest travel destinations and one which frequently ranks as the best bargain. Paris has its café-society, the Finns their saunas, and the Hungarians have baths - the one attraction that will surely draw you to Budapest, which is the richest capital in hot water springs in the world. In fact, people have been visiting Budapest to take the waters since Roman times in the second and third centuries. However, the true bathing culture was initiated during the Turkish occupation in the 16th and 17th centuries when it became common treatment for rheumatic diseases.
The springs originate within a geological fault that runs through the River Danube and daily produces tonnes of warm spring water. Temperatures range between 57.2°F to 219.2°F and the waters contain calcium, magnesium, potassium, fluoride, sodium and numerous other minerals Hungarian doctors resolutely claim hold curative powers for all kinds of muscular ailments.
The palatial Hotel Gellért, located on the banks of the River Danube and at the foot of Gellért Hill, houses the most pristine spa in the city. The Hotel, constructed at the turn of the century for the truly discerning traveler, resembles a classic renaissance building found in Vienna or Paris and doggedly clings to service and customs Emperor Franz Joseph would have expected. The 234 rooms are spacious and tastefully furnished. One almost expects to find Agatha Christie's Inspector Hercule Poirot twirling his moustache at the writing desk, so within keeping is the décor; and their internationally recognized gourmet dining is a highlight to any food connoisseur.
Step through a side-door into the flamboyant art-nouveau foyer of the Gellért Spa where stone swans gracefully spread their wings over a mosaic floor; fronds of exotic plants extravagantly tumble over the balustrade of the gallery and at the center atrium, healing waters gush from the mouths of sapphire dragons into a turquoise swimming pool, framed by amber porcelain figurines, above which looms a tall stained glass dome. The elegant medical baths are a masterpiece of Ottoman architecture and astound the senses. For around $205 (per night, for a double recently refurbished room, including breakfast), you can enjoy the full Gellért Spa experience. There is a unisex indoor pool with a section reserved for men- and women-only. In these reserved sections, massage services are available - but bear in mind these are bracing, Turkish-style massages. img src='images/DaleBathEntrance to Gellert Bath 1.jpg' align='right'>
At the entrance to the baths an attendant in hospital whites hands you a canvas towel (and a modesty cover for gentlemen) and points you in the direction of a dressing compartment where you disrobe and secure your valuables.
Inside the opulent spa complex the walls are covered with lustrous azure and emerald tiles gilded with honeysuckle and figurines of cherubs embracing above dolphin water fountains.
Lower yourself into one of two semi-circular pools and sink up to your neck with a sigh in simmering 96.8°F water. Other patrons of mixed ages huddle together in small groups of two or three while they unwind. A contemplative hush is the favored way to bathe, although the perpetual stream of water generates enough white noise to cover the occasional comment. Once pleasantly parboiled, progress to the massage mat where a same-sex masseuses (all of whom have a Sumo wrestler look about them) will give you a no-frills, all-business massage, like you've never had before - your body will be vigorously pressed and kneaded with soap lather for what seems like a small eternity, but in reality is only 15-minutes.
If you bruise easily, you may prefer the gentler Thai massage available across the foyer from the spa. This hour-long massage is unique, as the certified masseuses use not only their fingers in manipulating your muscles through a thin massage gown, but their hands, elbows, knees and feet as well.
Now well massaged, head to the outdoor pool area, which surpasses any Vegas hotel, as this pool is cloaked in history - including marble steps, ceramic tile mosaics and a luxurious landscape.
During off-peak hours in mid-morning and afternoons, the patrons are mostly pensioners desperately seeking relief from arthritis or rheumatism. However, the baths provide more than physical respite, as the hushed atmosphere and exotic surroundings afford one's psyche a welcome break from the 21st-century.
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| Cindy Lou Dale is an award wining writer and photo-journalist who heralds from a small farming community in Southern Africa. She has studied in the United States, the UK, South Africa and mainland Europe. Her career has moved her around the world: Beverley Hills to Bosnia, Cape Town to the Congo, Kentucky to Kenya, Miami to Mozambique. In 1998 she immigrated to England and from there recently relocated to Belgium.
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